Breaking Down the World of Custom. Follow-UpSeptember 9th, 2013
It's arrived. Last week I received my hand-crafted custom garment. Since my time living in Italy, I've worn many beautiful suits from a variety of respected labels... I can honestly say that I've never worn anything that has felt and looked this good.
The very first thing that I noticed as I slipped the jacket on was the butter soft canvas construction against my chest and shoulders - it had a beautifully tailored expression without looking or feeling boxy. The second thing I took note of was the suppression in the waist - it was perfect, clean with a hint of pull. Last but not least was the fit of the garment across the back and shoulder blades. This is typically the only place where I run into fit problems on ready to wear suits. I have slightly high shoulders that point forward which always results in a massive collar roll. As you scroll through the photos, you'll see that this jacket has zero roll across the back! Have a peek at the details and fit of the suit.
Overall the jacket's balance was awesome, not too long or short. I decided to go with a wider lapel and a semi roped shoulder to give it a clean sartorial look - slightly slanted pockets with a ticket pocket for a custom punch. I'll say it again; I love the shape from the chest to waist, pulling ever so slightly at the button without looking tight.
Note the clean, trim shoulder line. This was as narrow as I could go without it breaking at the top of the sleeve.
This is the photo that truly struck me. Notice the collar and the blades, it falls nearly perfect. As I mentioned above, I always have issues here. My shoulder blades are predominate, and jackets rarely look good across my back.
The whole process has been positive for me, seeing that I'm usually on the other end of it. After eight weeks, one set of measurements, and one try on fitting, I can say that I'm truly happy with the outcome.