Pitti Uomo is the leading menswear trade show. It’s known for drawing out the world’s most fashionable men and for setting the tone for upcoming seasons of style. The Helm team headed to Florence to check it out for the spring/summer 2020 showing.
If you’re the type of person who likes to get a jumpstart on style, or if you’re just curious about what we were seeing, take a look below!
Trends from Pitti Uomo 96
Sartorial staples
As always, sartorial style took the top spot across the board. Check fabrics, sport jackets with soft shoulders, and pops of colour via pocket squares were among the leading looks.
Oversized clothing
We haven’t seen a lot of this look yet locally, but baggy trousers and loose-fitting linen tops have started to work their way into contemporary menswear. They’ve solidified their place in style for at least another year or two to come, so perhaps we’ll see this look here soon.
Tobacco and navy
A sharp colour combination that we saw a lot of was the camel/tobacco hue mixed in with navy. One of the two colours usually takes the lead, with the other acting as a bold punctuation mark.
Desert style
From motorcycles and Cessnas to rows of cacti and sand-covered floors, the desert theme dominated at Pitti this year. You can expect rich leather, sandy tones, field coat details, and breathable linen to make an appearance in the upcoming seasons.
Pleated trousers
We saw a big shift toward pleated trousers at Pitti. Flat-front pants will remain a classic, but for the more fashion-forward, a pleat or two in the trousers is where it’s at.
New Balance Everywhere
Sneakers and suits are no new phenomenon, but we were really struck by the sheer volume of New Balance kicks being paired with all sorts of tailored clothing this year. From the chunky 990s to the classic 574s, these shoes are taking over the menswear scene. We didn’t manage to snap a photo of them at Pitti, but trust us when we say they were everywhere.
Technical fabrics
While wool, linen, silk, and cashmere will always reign supreme, we are seeing a huge increase in blended fabrics and new techniques that are making for more functional, comfortable clothing for men. Stretch wool, mesh linings, vented pockets, and more are making their way to the forefront of style, even in tailored goods like suits and sport jackets. We’re excited about the possibilities here!
Wide Lapels
Skinny lapels have had their moment, and now we’re starting to see a bolder, wider lapel come into play. Both notch and peak lapels are expanding outward for a more classic tailored look.
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